This is the cruise ship that ferries thousands on the 50 mile journey from Estonia to Finland.
The passengers were almost all male, most sprawled across the hallway floors, making the journey to buy beer at a lower tax rate. They disembarked into the night dragging handcarts stacked high with Saku.
Fins are certainly a modest bunch. The underlying sentiment for my visit seems to be, "Thank you for coming here, but why did you bother?"
Ranee, my travel assistant, booked me in a renovated Helsinki prison that is now a hotel.
The rooms are nice, but it doesn't matter how you spruce up a sauna that used to be a solitary confinement cell. NOT RELAXING.